Trousers have always been the silent stalwart in a man’s wardrobe. It is the lone versatile garment that can be coupled with a coat for a formal suit; semi-formally with a shirt and with t-shirts/turtlenecks for casual wear. It can disguise a pair of reedy legs to a fuller form with a comfort cut and give men with fuller built legs the illusion of sleekness with a slimmer cut. It is quite common to run your fingers through the hangers of umpteen trousers in your wardrobe and still give that momentary blank gaze of not being sure which one to wear for the occasion.
The evolution of trousers over the last two centuries across different cultures has been phenomenal. The world owes an ode to the modern form of trousers to the dandy Beau Brummel in the 19th century. Before then, trousers were worn as leggings and being form-fitting, they often failed to distract attention from one’s imperfect proportions. It’s always a task confronting that innate fleeting scare of making a decision that would ruin a first impression.
The build of a person should always be considered while choosing a distinct style. The full-bodied man should always wear trousers at his waist and focus on giving enough length to distract attention from his girth. The trousers could taper slightly through the calves to give an overall sleeker appearance. Vertical pleats turned inwards allows for more comfort when a person is seated. A leaner and taller person should always consider wearing slightly fuller cut trousers and should always remember not to mimic the look of skinny jeans. Fred Astaire was a huge advocate of this style and was considered the most stylish person of his time. A shorter man would want to emphasize on elongating his legs and have slightly more fitted trousers to create that illusion. The hem of all trousers should sit comfortably over the shoe creating a natural break and a half without it appearing to overpower them. Cuffed bottoms give a more classic look to one’s trousers.
Trousers can be constructed with classic belt loops or with side tabs/ brace tops as is more prevalent with British tailoring. The belts do offer a solution to secure the trousers at the desired position of the waist. The side tabs, while offering the same solution due to the presence of an invisible elasticated fastening strip is more natural and less constricting than belts. Brace tops offer the most comfortable solution whereby trousers are suspended from the shoulders allowing the waistband to be cut more comfortably. The etiquette of bearing brace tops would be to do so with double-breasted suits.
Recent movies such as Kingsman have displayed the importance of wearing sharply cut suits and trousers paying an ode to classical styles yet maintaining the balance between form and function for comfort- a marriage of sorts. The trouser is a garment that exemplifies one’s natural flair for style and elegance while adding allure to your overall appearance. Lasting statements are made with first impressions, and your trousers will make the first impression an ever-lasting one.
Knights And Lords bespoke tailors are located in the Al Fattan building across from the Rixos Jumeirah Beach Residences.
